It is important, when you are sick, and it is 18 degrees outside and mucky, to have a pizza delivery place you can count on. To whom can you cry out for cheesy salvation and saucy sustenance on a Wednesday night, when you are feeling blue and all that will help is an hour of Survivor and a large pizza pie? Last week we called upon Siano’s with fairly impressive results, I am happy to report. I must mention our delivery guy, that much maligned member of society. He wasn’t a stoner, or a mumbler, or a weirdo, or a pervert, or a dog kicker. Or maybe he was. But he made a fine first impression in the three minutes that we were together. Jovial and swift, he unzipped the keep-warm bag and made change while making jokes and seeing that I wasn’t too cold in the foyer. That’s where we were standing. It’s a small thing, but much appreciated, don’t you think? I was a little surprised at the price – $17.00 seemed somewhat high for a large cheese, but considering the less costly alternatives available, that appear to use a 30 watt bulb to melt American cheese on basement-bred dough, I am willing to pay a premium. And it was good! Chewy, on the thin side, properly charred crust, tangy, very red, bright sauce and a sensible amount of cheese. It was reminiscent of homemade, pizza party pies, the kind you get before a rousing game of musical chairs and a lousy round of hot potato. Oh, the anxiety of those rainy afternoons, all party dressed-up and ready for anything, usually ending with goody bags. I would serve Siano’s to a swarm of 3rd graders or nuisance of beer drunk husbands watching TV. I would order it again any day, and by any day, I mean, probably tonight. Probst and his dimples are back! I still am not sure I have found true pizza love in Portland, but for overall tastiness, quality and desirable delivery, Siano’s kind of rules.