El El Frijoles

El El Frijoles

We drove about 50 miles East this weekend, to have lunch in a barn. On a desolate-feeling peninsula empty of apparent industry or populace, where the treetops are already glowing in oranges and shades of red, and great swaths of field are studded with rock as if the ancient giants are emerging from the mantle,… 

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Easy Enchiladas Rojas

Enchiladas Rojas

In four years spent living in the Southern tip of Mexico, I don’t think I ever had an enchilada. There were plenty of tacos, and even a flirtation with some killer breakfast enfrijoladas while visiting Playa del Carmen, but never a classic enchilada. Though they may be popular in other parts of the country, the… 

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“American Style” Ground Beef Tacos

"American Style" Ground Beef Tacos

During the last years of his life, my father lived with us in our house in Mexico. It wasn’t a great leap; getting to have one last adventure was the appropriate final act for a man who had spent his life careening from one overseas exploit to the next, and I am grateful to have… 

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Cantina El Rayo

Cantina El Rayo

Over the last two years, Portland’s Mexican restaurant scene has undergone a fairly massive transformation. In just 24 months, it’s as though the city collectively moved past the grim, cynical depictions of South of the Border fare, past the bottomless bowls of melted queso, and beyond fishbowl-sized frozen margaritas. All at once, Portland diners were… 

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Rhubarb Week: Grilled Flank Steak Tacos with Chipotle Rhubarb Salsa

Grilled Flank Steak Tacos with Chipotle Rhubarb Salsa

You know what’s a reasonable thing to have in your garden? A rhubarb plant. You know what’s less reasonable? Having ten enormous rhubarb plants. A bumper crop of rhubarb, each plant producing dozens of thick, crimson red rhubarb stalks, has left us scrambling for new ways to use the tart flesh of this vegetable. We… 

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Chicken in Chipotle Cream Sauce

chicken-chipotle-cream-sauce

As holidays of dubious historical significance that serve as little more than an excuse for copious daytime imbibing, Cinco de Mayo is my second least favorite. I prefer daytime drinking that is forthright and without (much) pretense. (One must have a little pretense, or else they take you to Promises). Appropriate situations include: baseball games, company… 

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Taquitos de Lengua with Salsa Roja

Taquitos de Lengua

Who would have expected New Haven, Connecticut to be home to one of the most exciting developing Mexican taco truck scenes we’ve ever seen? Occupying a stretch of Long Wharf Drive, which runs parallel to Interstate 95, past New Haven’s massive Brutalist-style concrete architecture, a few gas stations, and a fairly newly-minted Ikea, hardcore Mexican… 

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Hacienda Pancho Villa

Hacienda Pancho Villa

As we sat munching on a basket of piping hot corn tortilla chips, still shimmering from the oil bath they had received only moments before, we tried to figure out exactly why sitting in one of the booths in the back of the restaurant felt exactly like being in Mexico. Hacienda Pancho Villa doesn’t go… 

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